How to Lengthen Pants

Learn how to lengthen pants by letting out the hem and rehemming with a hidden bias hem tape. This technique works well on dress pants.

I’m updating this post with some new pictures and more information. There’s a tutorial for lengthening skinny pants and a tutorial for lengthening cropped wide leg pants.

One uses single fold bias tape, and the other one uses a bias strip of fabric. The sewing technique for altering is similar for both pairs of pants.

I have always had a problem finding long pants. Skinny fit make the search a little easier since the hem length can vary, but it’s still a problem I have when looking for pants, especially dress pants.

This works best with hems that don’t have any wear or discoloration on the bottom. These jeans are really worn out along the bottom, and it would be very obvious that they were lengthened if you try to lengthen them.

Do you want to learn how to alter and hem? Try one of these projects:

• How to alter jeans
• How to hem 7 different ways
• How to sew a cuff on dress pants
• How to add cuffs to pajama pants
• How to lengthen jacket sleeves
• How to lengthen a dress
• Sewing and alterations you can do yourself

How to Lengthen Pants

Lengthen Pants with Single Fold Bias Tape

supplies

• A pair of pants the are a little too short – it works best with larger hems
• Single fold bias tape – creates a 1/2 inch hem
• Sewing machine
• Sewing tools

The original hem is a 1 inch double fold hem which means I can lengthen it about 1 inch.

Use a seam ripper to open up the original hem.

Press the fabric flat to remove the folds.

Check for any discrepancies along the bottom of the pants. Sometimes the bottom of the pants don’t line up at the seam.

I like the measure down from the lowest fold to the shortest point on the pants which on this pair is 1/2 inch.

Mark 1/2 inch down from the lowest fold all the way around the pants. Do the same to the other side.

Trim the excess off.

Take your single fold bias tape and open the two folds. Fold the short end over 3/8 inch and pin it to the bottom of the pant leg. The raw edge of the bias tape should line up with the raw edge of the pants fabric.

Pin the single fold bias tape around the bottom of the pants.

Sew the bias tape onto the pants by sewing a straight line on the lower fold.

Fold the bias tape over until it is inside the pants. Roll it up slightly until the bias tape does not show from the outside. Pin the bias tape in place.

Sew the bias tape in place creating the new hem.

Press the new hem in place. You finished!

lengthen pants with bias cut fabric strip

supplies

• A pair of pants the are a little too short – it works best with larger hems
• Strips of fabric cut on the bias, 1 inch to 2 inches wide
• Sewing machine
• Sewing tools

The original hem is a 1 inch double fold hem which means I can lengthen it about 1 inch.

First, unpick the hem completely and press to remove the folds.

Then cut a long strip of fabric on the bias. I wanted a 1 inch hem so my strip is 2 inches thick. If you want the classic 5/8 inch hem then cut your strip 1.25″.

You can also buy single-fold bias tape called “hem tape” instead of making your own. It looks like this.

Lay the strip right sides together with one edge lining up with the bottom of the pants and sew 1/4 inch away from the edge.

When you get back to where you started, overlap about an 1 inch.

Push the seam allowance down towards the hem tape.

Fold the fabric up to where it is sewn onto the pants.

Fold it up again with the raw edge tucked inside.

Fold and pin the fabric all the way around the bottom of the pants.

Sew around each leg. I sewed 1 inch from the fold. (For skinny leg openings it’s easier to sew while looking at the inside of the pants.)

Press the new hem really well.

If you make something using this sewing project, I’d love to see! Please share it on social media with the hashtag #heatherhandmade and tag me!