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How to Sew a Collar Professionally

Learn how to sew a collar with a special sewing technique to keep your collar from flipping up. The collar lays flat and looks professional.

I love wearing and making button up shirts. They can be classic or modern, simple or unique, solid or patterned.

Because of my different backgrounds in sewing, I have learned how make clothing look professionally made.

This is the best sewing tip to sew a collar and have it look professional. The collar will lie flat and will never flip up!

How to Sew a Collar Professionally

What is a Collar?

A collar is a piece of fabric around the neck of a shirt, dress, jacket or coat. It either stands up or folds over depending on the design.

A collar works by having two pieces of fabric: a top piece and a bottom piece. The bottom piece is called the under collar.

Generally, both pieces of the collar are cut exactly the same and one is then interfaced

What is an under collar?

On well design coats there are separate under collar pattern pieces which is actually smaller than the main collar.

We achieve the same smaller under collar look in this sewing tutorial.

When do you Make the Facing or Under Collar Smaller?

Whenever you want to make your under collar lie flat it should be smaller than the top collar.

It works with coat collars, button up shirt colllars, and peter pan collars. It is not for standing collars because there is no fold involved.

This tip works for all kinds of faced collars with a fold, faced pocket flaps that need to lie flat, faced pockets, etc.

This will not work for standing collars, hem facings, or neckline facings.

How to Sew a Collar

Place both collars together with right sides together.

Pull the under collar or facing 1/8″ past the edge of the collar on all edges except the neck edge.

In this picture I have pulled the navy fabric, the facing, out on all edges except the bottom neckline edge.

A Tip For Making Your Collars Look Professional

Sew the two collars together with the regular seam allowances. This means, if you are sewing at 1/2″ you will sew 1/2″ from the collar edge, not the facing edge!

how to sew a collar

Trim and grade the seam allowances.

trim the corners

Turn the collar right side out. Poke the corners out.

Without any ironing, the collar will start to curl towards the under collar.

How to Sew a Collar Professionally // heatherhandmade.com

Press the collar. Since the collar is curling towards the under collar the seam will be pulled to the under collar which will pull the seam to the under collar and make your collar look really good.

When you sew the collar on, it will curl down towards the body like a collar should. This is the trick to getting your collars to lying flat against your body.

How to Sew a Collar Professionally

How to Sew a Collar

Yield: 1 collar
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Active Time: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Confident Beginner
Estimated Cost: Free

Learn how to sew a collar with a special sewing technique to keep your collar from flipping up. The collar lays flat and looks professional.

Materials

  • Collar pattern pieces
  • Matching thread

Tools

  • Sewing tools
  • Sewing machine

Instructions

    1. Place both collars together with right sides together.
    2. Pull the under collar or facing 1/8" past the edge of the collar on all edges except the neck edge.
    3. Sew the two collars together with the regular seam allowances. This means, if you are sewing at 1/2" you will sew 1/2" from the collar edge, not the facing edge!
    4. Trim and grade the seam allowances.
    5. Turn the collar right side out. Poke the corners out
    6. Without any ironing, the collar will start to curl towards the under collar.
    7. Press the collar. Since the collar is curling towards the under collar the seam will be pulled to the under collar which will pull the seam to the under collar and make your collar look really good.
    8. When you sew the collar on, it will curl down towards the body like a collar should. This is the trick to get your collars to lie flat against your body

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How to Sew a Collar Professionally

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Thank you a very simple explanation correct something I have puzzled over on a few projects

Hello Heather….. Very nice demo of this technique! I cringe when I see a collar with “tip-flip”!
You may have seen this technique on one of my 2 shirtmaking blogs. Professional Shirtmakers like me use this technique.frequently–
Off-The-Cuff-Style.blogspot.com
Off-The-Cuff-Shirtmaking.blogspot.com
There are countless shirtmaking tips and tutorials there. Though I do not blog any longer, the information is timeless (with no affiliate links).

Wow, didn't know it before. Thanks!