I’ve been working on fitting pants this year, and it’s been a long and hard process. I’m determined to have pants that fit well so I decided to start with the Lander Pants sewing pattern. The fit can still be improved, but it pairs perfectly with my new Cheyenne tunic for a perfect fall outfit!
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I started by cutting out a size 4 and adding 3 inches to the leg length and no length to the rise. I cut out my non-stretch denim because I had already done a wearable muslin. It helped me figure out a lot of the first fitting issues.
I cut them out of my non-stretch denim and basted them together to check the fit. I ended up taking a small wedge out of the center back at the waist above the hips. I took in the thighs from the hip down to the knee. I also did a low butt adjustment and flat seat adjustment.
I carefully re-basted to check the fit with each adjustment and transferred the alterations to the flat pattern so I would remember. One more adjustment I’ll do next time is to shorten the back thigh piece on the inseam. I think this will get rid of the tiny bit of wrinkles I have under my butt.
I kind of fixate on those last wrinkles that I couldn’t get rid of, but I’m really proud of how many wrinkles there were before compared to how many there are now. It does look really good now.
I am a rectangle and I think these pants actually accentuate that I’m a rectangle. They show that I have no hips and no indentation at my waist. But I love them and love wearing them. I like how they look.
I used some non-stretch 9 oz Cone Mills denim in Indigo that I got from Sewing Studio on one of their fabric sales. It’s a lovely dark color with just a touch of texture. This navy is really, really dark.
I purposely got a dark color and did not do any fading because I wanted these to be dressier pants. My husband has a nice work dinner in the mountains coming up, and these pants are what I’m planning on wearing. I think the cut keeps them looking nice along with the dark color.
I used some brass buttons that I got from my Grandma. It’s a great vintage nod, and I love the way they contrast with the dark denim.
I used navy jean thread so that I could practice my topstitching skills and so the jeans look dressy. I like contrast stitching, but I think it makes jeans casual. I did not add any special topstitching except some bartacks that start wide and get thin and disappear. It’s the perfect simple touch.
I made a straight size small with no height added. I did move the thinnest part of the shirt down 1 inch to hit me at my waist. I made the shirt length and cut the sleeves to elbow length. I also used this sewing hack to help the collar lie flat.
I added a flared ruffle for a feminine detail which is essentially adding a big donut shaped piece of fabric to the ends of the sleeves. I also take in the sides at the hem 1/2 inch.
I have made this shirt five other times (floral, white, plaid/gingham/chambray) so I’m pretty good at the construction and the fitting. It was a new experience to make a button up shirt out of rayon, but I’m never looking back.
I used a distressed rayon shirting in pink from Style Maker Fabrics. It has a perfect drape and hand, and it was not hard to work with. I just loved sewing it. If you are afraid of sewing rayon, here are some tips to sewing lightweight fabric.
The distressed part is just a little alteration in the color, and I think it’ll help to hide wrinkles and fading. I was worried it wouldn’t look good, but I’m really happy with the added texture.
I used 1/2 inch shell buttons because they are my jam. I love the look and it gives just enough organic feeling to the shirt.
I wore these holiday ready shoes in the photo shoot!
Learn How to Sew Your Own Clothes
- If you want to learn how to sew your own clothing you need to start somewhere. These are the Things I Wish I Could Tell Myself Before I Started Sewing. They will help any beginner who wants to learn how to sew.
- Then you can read some Tips to Start Sewing Clothing.
- Once you start you’ll get better at using a sewing machine, but you’ll make clothing that you might not wear or love. I made every mistake and this is How to Sew Clothing You’ll Love. (Avoid my mistakes!)
- As you get better and better you’ll need to learn How to Choose Fabric for Sewing Clothes and the Best Fabrics for Sewing Clothing. I recommend fabrics that I love, but you’ll find the fabric you love the best.
- You can use paper patterns which are great to buy on sale or you can use PDF patterns which are great for instant gratification. There are lots of Different Ways to Assemble PDF Patterns so you need to find what works for you.
- Lastly, when you are sewing your own clothing and you are drawn to lots of different printed fabric, you need to learn How to Make a Versatile Handmade Wardrobe + Free Printable so that all the items in your wardrobe can coordinate with another item of clothing and be worn!